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Old Sep 15, 2002, 03:09 AM   #1
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Exclamation car audio experts please help!

i have two problems here. one, when my car is in motion there is an audible hiss coming from the speakers. two, when i change tracks (tried different cds) on my deck, and changing the volume from 0 to 1,there is always a click. i've tried noise flilters, but they didn't eliminate the problem of the hissing. i've rewired the car too! the hiss is really anonying especially when u are listen to quiet music. anyone have any clues as to what is going on?!
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Old Sep 15, 2002, 03:29 AM   #2
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Depends on what car it is. You might want to look into better spark plug wires, ones with better EMF supression. Maybe some OE wires? If not Magnecore makes good wires with awesome supression. Thats the only thing i can think of.
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Old Sep 15, 2002, 03:42 AM   #3
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i have a 90's accord coupe. that was the solution i was thinking about for the hissing b/c i remember seeing a car tuning show on TNN that said the spark plug wires does that to the audio. thanks for the tips

that takes it down to one more questions, the clicking...
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Old Sep 15, 2002, 11:26 AM   #4
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Does the click come from the speakers or from the CD player itself?
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Old Sep 15, 2002, 12:11 PM   #5
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the click you hear is your head unit turning on the amps. and your going to need some noise suppressers on your constant power line.
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Old Sep 15, 2002, 12:13 PM   #6
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One thing to check is your ground. If you have a bad grounding connection you can get these kinds of symptoms.


Regrounding your system is an easy and cheap thing to try. If that doesn't fix it, then you have to go on to other things.
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Old Sep 15, 2002, 12:38 PM   #7
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Make sure your amp cables aren't running along side power cables.

In my car, the power cable comes from the battery, thru my car on the left side and into the trunk.
The amp jacks run along the right side.

Putting them together will result in a "hiss" or the acceleration sound thru the speakers.
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Old Sep 15, 2002, 02:12 PM   #8
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You posted this in another thread, but it seems more relevant here (ie car audio related):

Quote:
Originally posted by Ijustwannaknow
why do people say legacy amps suck?
I think b/c they are considered a "low end" company. Its been several years since I was into car audio, but that is how Legacy was perceived then. Basically 3 tiers to audio:

Low end: Profile, Jensen, Legacy, etc
Mid grade: Pioneer, Kenwood, JBL, etc
High end: Phoenix Gold, Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio, MB Quartz, etc

I'm referring to amps and speakers btw
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Old Sep 15, 2002, 02:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Does the click come from the speakers or from the CD player itself?
the click comes from the speakers.

Quote:
the click you hear is your head unit turning on the amps. and your going to need some noise suppressers on your constant power line.
are u talking about the memory line that comes from the battery?

Quote:
Make sure your amp cables aren't running along side power cables.

In my car, the power cable comes from the battery, thru my car on the left side and into the trunk.
The amp jacks run along the right side.

Putting them together will result in a "hiss" or the acceleration sound thru the speakers.
damn i hate that acceleration "hiss!" . i'll check on what u mentioned about the routing.

Thank You very much guys!
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Old Sep 15, 2002, 04:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by wandernACE64
damn i hate that acceleration "hiss!" . i'll check on what u mentioned about the routing.
If you're describing what I think you are, it is a buzz that goes exactly with the accel correct? If so that is definetly a grounding problem. Go through and reground everything. Make sure that the grounds have as short of a cable as possible and bolt them right next to the units you are grounding. Also, scrape off any paint between the ground and the body of the car. If the screw is stripped, use a bigger one or ground it in a different place.

I used to work installing stereos, and the only cars that we had trouble getting rid of that buzz on was corvettes because there is so little metal on the car (it's mostly fibreglass).

There are noise reducers, but they affect the sound (they just drop out the most likely frequencies that the buzz occurs at).
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Old Sep 15, 2002, 10:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by una11
You posted this in another thread, but it seems more relevant here (ie car audio related):



I think b/c they are considered a "low end" company. Its been several years since I was into car audio, but that is how Legacy was perceived then. Basically 3 tiers to audio:

Low end: Profile, Jensen, Legacy, etc
Mid grade: Pioneer, Kenwood, JBL, etc
High end: Phoenix Gold, Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio, MB Quartz, etc

I'm referring to amps and speakers btw
I dont see how legacy can be low end when they use the same type power supply and amp as alpine.
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Old Sep 15, 2002, 10:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ijustwannaknow
I dont see how legacy can be low end when they use the same type power supply and amp as alpine.
Because Alpine is high priced crap.
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 01:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ijustwannaknow
I dont see how legacy can be low end when they use the same type power supply and amp as alpine.
Alpine is best known for their head units. Their speakers and amps I would probably say are mid grade.
Anyway, I'm not trying to say Legacy is sh!t. I'm sure it is fine.
However, it is considered low end among car audio enthusiasts.
But if you like it, don't worry about what others think or say.

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Old Sep 16, 2002, 06:30 AM   #14
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Talking

Quote:
Originally posted by pushtun
If you're describing what I think you are, it is a buzz that goes exactly with the accel correct? If so that is definetly a grounding problem. Go through and reground everything. Make sure that the grounds have as short of a cable as possible and bolt them right next to the units you are grounding. Also, scrape off any paint between the ground and the body of the car. If the screw is stripped, use a bigger one or ground it in a different place.

I used to work installing stereos, and the only cars that we had trouble getting rid of that buzz on was corvettes because there is so little metal on the car (it's mostly fibreglass).

There are noise reducers, but they affect the sound (they just drop out the most likely frequencies that the buzz occurs at).
u are correct. thanks again!
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 09:19 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ijustwannaknow
I dont see how legacy can be low end when they use the same type power supply and amp as alpine.
Mercedes and Cavaliers use the same TYPE of construction.

Yet i am sure you agree that they are not the same quality!

They use internal combustion engines.
They use caliper on disk brakes.
They use planetary gear band transmissions.

Yet...

If you thing the same TYPE of power supply makes the amp,
i suggest a good book on audio amps.

Even if both use toroidal power supplies, the wounding rate and
the core material makes lots of changes. And thats just the
power supply.

Amplification transistors are a hole new ball game.

You both Legacy amps, you like them, they give you the sound
you want. Fine, they are dooing their job. But if you buy
a 150$ 5000W amp, dont think it will do a better job than a 600$ 50 watt amp.
It just doenst work that way...
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 01:10 PM   #16
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Just one more note on the grounding - put some sort of conductive grease on the grounding connectors to prevent corrosion. As well, you might want to try a filter on the alternator as this might be adding noise when you accelerate.

Chris.
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 02:15 PM   #17
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Not sure if you've solved your problem or not, but when I used to be into car stereos (back in the day with my *****in' chevette)... I had the same problem with humming when I accelerated.

To solve it, I had to buy a ground loop isolator. (I'm pretty sure that's what it was called. I can't even remember what it costed, but it worked.

Good luck!
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 04:52 PM   #18
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One other thing you can always check also is your spark plug type. Every once in a while I've seen people have non-restistor type spark plugs in their cars. This can cause some serious clicking in the stereo. *shrug* just a thought.
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 07:29 PM   #19
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I agree with the guys that say "ground". This is the first area you should check. Then, make sure your speaker cables were not run alongside your power...and make sure those speaker and pre-out cables are of good quality, insulated well, and connected well. Make sure your grounding cable or strap is as short as possible to get to a good ground. Make sure your ground, as well as your battery terminal connectors are clean and free of corrosion.

It used to be that using a line-level converter instead of your amplifier pre-outs was a good way to get a cleaner signal to your amp (better s/n ratio with the higher power output), but improvements in cables as well as head units have made that go away, for the most part.
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 08:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by MuscleCramp
Not sure if you've solved your problem or not, but when I used to be into car stereos (back in the day with my *****in' chevette)... I had the same problem with humming when I accelerated.

To solve it, I had to buy a ground loop isolator. (I'm pretty sure that's what it was called. I can't even remember what it costed, but it worked.

Good luck!
Good point. Quick electronics brief: A ground loop is when there is an electrical circuit with the grounds at different points being at different potentials (essentially different voltage levels compared to each other). This means that if you directly connect the two parts of the circuit you can get a current running between the two different grounds that is essentially random and can change - hence the noise on the car audio. A ground loop isolator is basically a transformer thats sole purpose is to make sure there is no direct connection between the parts of the circuit but still allow AC power (ie. the audio signal) to pass mostly unaffected.

Chris.
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 08:34 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by cbsboyer
Good point. Quick electronics brief: A ground loop is when there is an electrical circuit with the grounds at different points being at different potentials (essentially different voltage levels compared to each other). This means that if you directly connect the two parts of the circuit you can get a current running between the two different grounds that is essentially random and can change - hence the noise on the car audio. A ground loop isolator is basically a transformer thats sole purpose is to make sure there is no direct connection between the parts of the circuit but still allow AC power (ie. the audio signal) to pass mostly unaffected.

Chris.
AFAIK, it's pretty damn hard to get a ground loop in a car. Everything has a common ground (the body). You shouldn't need ground loop isolators or audio filters to take out the buzz. I would be tempted to take it into a car audio shop if you can't find a cheap/easy fix, they will be able to get the best solution for you.

I have dealt with ground loops before while doing sound for bands and stuff though, you have to be careful not to have more than one ground, otherwise you have tons of buzz and lots of electric shocks to band members.
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 09:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by pushtun
AFAIK, it's pretty damn hard to get a ground loop in a car. Everything has a common ground (the body). You shouldn't need ground loop isolators or audio filters to take out the buzz. I would be tempted to take it into a car audio shop if you can't find a cheap/easy fix, they will be able to get the best solution for you.
If he has a welded frame, dirty ground connects, etc. it can be suprisingly easy, especially when you're talking about signal for amp inputs.

Quote:
I have dealt with ground loops before while doing sound for bands and stuff though, you have to be careful not to have more than one ground, otherwise you have tons of buzz and lots of electric shocks to band members.
In my electronics class one student forgot to check once and discovered there was a 550V ground loop potential from the remote monitor and the control equipment. Cool fireworks, but a pain in the butt to solder in new sockets for every single chip on the board

Chris.
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Old Sep 16, 2002, 10:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by cbsboyer
If he has a welded frame, dirty ground connects, etc. it can be suprisingly easy, especially when you're talking about signal for amp inputs.
What I meant was that if each ground connection was a good connection to the body of the car, there's very little chance of getting a ground loop. A car is pretty much a closed system.
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Old Sep 17, 2002, 01:12 AM   #24
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whee. that was a ton of info to think about. thanks guys

so what u guys are basically saying is i should just redo all my grounds right? i hope this solves my "clicking" problem too...
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Old Sep 17, 2002, 11:03 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by wandernACE64
whee. that was a ton of info to think about. thanks guys

so what u guys are basically saying is i should just redo all my grounds right? i hope this solves my "clicking" problem too...
Yup, it's the simplest and cheapest. If that doesn't work, you're only short a few hours work. If it does, then you saved yourself a bunch of money.

I expect it's probably a loose ground though.
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