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Old Sep 10, 2018, 06:42 AM   #271
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Elysian
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Nice. You get use to it after a while. Although it's a much better idea to get the wide fenders and prevent the sandblasting.

I've got a Rocket Bunny Pandem kit already. The problem on this car is with this much poke on stock fenders I literally can't turn the wheel, it will rub damn near instantly.
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Old Sep 12, 2018, 08:34 AM   #272
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Radiator arrived last night, looks great.




Checked it loosely in front of the car, looks like it will work, will come down a bit low, but not lower than the oil pan. Picture obviously not at install height



Might work on fitting that this weekend. I'm going to wind up needing hood pins if this works out, as I'll have to remove the hood latch up front to fit it. I'm going to use the AeroCatch hood pins I think.
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Old Sep 16, 2018, 05:45 PM   #273
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Finally got some time between rain... Welded the castors onto my welding table, and tack welded my new oil pan to it so this time it won't deform while I'm modifying it. Started hacking, and welded an inner support to the oil pan, will give me some metal to weld to in that corner, hopefully make it less likely to burn through.



That's when I ran out of argon. Gonna have to pick some up tomorrow. A storm also started building up.
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Old Oct 9, 2018, 12:38 PM   #274
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Ordered the JagsThatRun Heavy-duty driveshaft flange for BMW V8 engine swaps, as well as a Spicer yoke for the transmission end. Will have a driveshaft built that uses 1310 u-joints, going to try to get it in queue at a local shop this week.
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Old Nov 17, 2018, 03:55 PM   #275
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Got some work in today. First thing I did was put an endoscope down a spark plug hole to make sure there was no contact between the valves and the pistons. So far so good.



Then I started working on the fan and radiator. The fan is from a Ford Fusion.




Have about an inch of clearance.



So started working on the radiator. Welded in some metal that I could use to actually mount the radiator. Still a work in progress, but a good start.



And the radiator sitting in its new home.



I had to cut a hole in the top of the core support for the fill hole, but that's not a big deal. I also had to remove the hood latch, I'll patch in some new metal next time. Need to go grab some self etching primer, don't want this stuff to rust.
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Old Nov 20, 2018, 08:37 AM   #276
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Need to go grab some self etching primer, don't want this stuff to rust.
BMW's don't rust.

In all seriousness looks great, coming along. Any idea when you plan to be done? Trying to hit a date?
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Old Nov 20, 2018, 10:16 AM   #277
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No, just bumbling around when I can work on it.
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Old Nov 24, 2018, 07:44 PM   #278
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I'm not a great welder, but I'm pretty happy with how this came out.




Have a lot more reinforcements to weld in, but this is a decent start.
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Old Nov 25, 2018, 05:31 PM   #279
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I'm no welder, part deux...

Welded in the camber/toe adjustment setup for the rear subframe, then rust converted and primed.



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Old Dec 2, 2018, 10:06 PM   #280
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Productive weekend. I finished the replacement oil pan and primed it, need to do a top coat with engine enamel. It's ugly, but it doesn't leak, I left it sitting with water in it for over an hour.

I also started taking the trailing arms apart, got one fully disassembled, started to strip it, and welded on the reinforcements. I welded the plate reinforcement top and bottom... My welds aren't too awesome, somehow I can color in the lines but can't weld a straight bead to save my life. I tried going over the first bead again, and it just wound up more crooked, and got some porosity...



Oh well. I still have another one to do, maybe it'll come out better. Need to prime and paint this one, but have one more small plate to do.
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Old Dec 3, 2018, 08:12 AM   #281
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What's the story on welding in all the reinforcement plates? Are the control arms known to bend and twist that much? Planning to track it with some super sticky tires?
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Old Dec 3, 2018, 08:25 AM   #282
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What's the story on welding in all the reinforcement plates? Are the control arms known to bend and twist that much? Planning to track it with some super sticky tires?
The first part, yes. BMW knew they were loose too, they put this type of reinforcement on the Z3M, which uses the same rear axle. I'm mainly doing all this because I don't need the car on the road any time soon, and I want it to be as good as possible.

This is the Z3M arm:

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Old Dec 23, 2018, 05:43 PM   #283
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Was busy most of the day, but went out and welded in another small reinforcement on the rear trailing arm. I'm happier with this one.

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Old Dec 24, 2018, 05:57 PM   #284
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Got the other trailing arm stripped down, now need to clean it up and prep it for welding. Will probably do that tomorrow.

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Old Dec 25, 2018, 06:04 PM   #285
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Finished welding the trailing arm and got everything primed with etching primer and painted black.



Still have a bunch of parts I need:

Wheel bearings
E46 rear brake caliper adapter
E46 rear brake calipers
E46 rear brake pads
Z4 rear rotors
All E-brake parts
Brake lines
Brake dust shields, both sides (were very rusted out, the E-brake parts just broke right off the shields)

So won't have the rear end together any time soon. I think I'm going to shift my focus to the front subframe now, need to pull the one out of my 86...
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Old Dec 25, 2018, 09:20 PM   #286
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As a guy who grew up, and still lives, in the North, I find the lush green December grass highly amusing.

EDIT: Wow, the high in Austin today was 74 °F! It was 34 °F where I live.
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Old Dec 27, 2018, 02:32 PM   #287
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Pulled the front subframe from my spare E30 today, managed to do it without even getting under the car. A good thing, as it's been raining and was really muddy under there.



Going to be attempting a tubular front subframe for this, may even try to run a rear sump oil pan on the V8...
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Old Dec 28, 2018, 06:34 PM   #288
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Lots of driving today, roughly 6 hours total. Took a trip to Houston to help a guy pull the driveline out of a 92 3 series vert, in exchange he allowed me to cut off the core support for my own car. Removing the core support made engine removal super easy anyways.



Going to make the core on my V8 E30 removable, might try to get that going this weekend, but have a lot of other stuff around the house to do, so who knows.
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Old Dec 18, 2019, 08:29 AM   #289
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Recently, I decided to change direction slightly and simplify things. I want to get the car on the road so I can feel it out, see where I want to take it from here. To do that, I've decided to temporarily go carburetor/distributor. Yesterday, I picked up a Holley 600cfm setup for it.




Still need to grab an HEI distributor, but this will allow me to get it on the road without the tuning I'd need with the Megasquirt setup. I'll see how the car drives with this setup and go from there. I think ultimately I'll wind up with a 347 stroker and a turbo, but I've never even driven this car so I think this is a vital step.
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Old Dec 18, 2019, 10:43 AM   #290
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Ooo that should sound great with that carb.

Hopefully the less aggressive roller cam will play nice with a turbo setup.

I was sad, I didn't see any port massaging. Factory porting is almost always less than stellar unless it's a purpose built aka expensive car. I almost always now, when I build an engine clean up the port castings.

I'm dreading building the MS3 rig for my project, for the same reasons. It's why I've been tormenting the stock system in my somewhat drivable car. The turbo though, uses a VAF... A vane air flow meter, so it's definitely getting a MAP based system with LS coils too... Beautiful trigger wheel I saw...

The only thing I'd suggest for that engine, is to get one of those Fluidampers or the like. It will really help tame the harmonics. Got one for the 2.slow in the VW, because the dream is to put a snail on it eventually, but I'll have to be content with the 130hp I might get out of it. The reason for the fancy damper, is because it's lacking a counterbalance shaft, and the over bore pushed it over 2L.

I never want to build an engine that needs the rods rifle drilled ever again... Basically doubled the cost of the rods.

Just some questions from my quick looky looky...

Did you hone the cylinders?

Are you running stock pistons? Stock rods? How do the stock rods and pistons hold up?

What bearings did you put in the bottom half? I always dithered on the Aluminum vs tri-layer vs coated.

I must have missed it, but did you go studs on the engine or stick with factory bolts? I know ARP sells upgraded rod bolts for the 302s. I'm a firmly entrenched hater of TTY or as VW calls them, cheese head bolts...

Enough of my yammering... I actually really like that this isn't another LS build, it's far more interesting to me. I have a soft spot for different builds.

Oh and I have a bunch of tools I'll never use again probably from rebuilding a rear axle. Doing it right is a very involved process. If I ever do it again, and if anyone reads this and ends up doing a rear axle, buy the case spreader. I didn't and it was a bad decision. If you get cursed with anything that has a GM 10 bolt, I feel for you. Lots of lessons learned... Heh
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Old Dec 21, 2019, 04:29 PM   #291
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Didn't see your edit till today.

The machine shop did a light hone, the cylinders were in great shape. Didn't have to have it bored or anything. Even though the motor I bought had blown head gaskets, it was still in fantastic shape.

The stock rods and pistons are actually pretty good. The pistons are already aluminum, and the rods are nice and strong, they'd hold up to more than what I'll throw at it. I don't want to overdo it on this build, if I get it running and decide I need more I'll either do a 347 stroker or I'll go 351, with a turbo.

Heads are held on with ARP bolts. Everything else is factory I think, though it's been a while since I built it, so my memory isn't great.

I did upgrade the heads to 3/8" stud mounted roller rockers. Otherwise they're stock.


Today I stopped by the junkyard checked every single Ford with a 302, and on the very last one I found what I was looking for... A distributor with electric advance. Also had an MSD cap on it in like new condition. Grabbed the plug wires too, just need something to control the advance with. Only thing I need beyond that is a bypass regulator to drop the fuel pressure down to 6-7psi.
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Old Dec 21, 2019, 06:49 PM   #292
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For what reason do you want to go back to carb and distributor?
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Old Dec 22, 2019, 07:38 AM   #293
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I already commented on that.
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Old Dec 22, 2019, 12:27 PM   #294
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I was kind of curious about that, because I knew you were talking about going stroker in the future, so getting fancy on the pistons and rods didn't make much sense.

If you go 351, which way would you go? If I remember right Ford had 3 versions of it. Though a stroker might be the lightest option but probably the most expensive.

Glad to hear the block just needed a basic refresh.

Why not a vacuum advance dizzy for now to keep things simple? After all the fun I've had with plugs and wires, I only use mag core wires. I refuse to even buy the fibreglass wires.

To get the advance working on the distributor you might need an MSD ignition box. It is pretty much for adapting old vacuum distributor engines to an electronic one. I think it pulls the tach signal from the distributor. I don't have much experience with them because they don't do 3 cylinder engines, and my 4 bangers are all coils to plug.
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Old Dec 23, 2019, 08:13 AM   #295
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You putting on two of these turbskis right?

https://www.thedrive.com/news/31540/...se-you-need-it
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Old Dec 23, 2019, 08:15 AM   #296
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I already commented on that.
My question is how retrofitting a carb on a fuel injected engines makes things simpler? Removing the fuel rail and intake for something else is a good amount of work.
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Old Dec 23, 2019, 10:17 AM   #297
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No it isn't, it's a few bolts and a fuel pressure regulator. Have you never worked on a small block?
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Old Dec 23, 2019, 12:23 PM   #298
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Ford 302 with an ECC-IV.

Of course, the fuel injection is block mounted so all that is required
is proper fuel pressure and you can mount the engine anywhere.
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Old Dec 23, 2019, 01:33 PM   #299
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Google has failed you.
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Old Dec 23, 2019, 03:16 PM   #300
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It did. This is why I asked.
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