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Old Dec 30, 2020, 01:23 AM   #271
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badsykes
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KAC: you know you can deactivate those dynamic voltage adjumestments and dynamic frequencies adjustments.
I deactivated them for my Ryzen 1.
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Old Dec 30, 2020, 03:38 AM   #272
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Originally Posted by badsykes View Post
KAC: you know you can deactivate those dynamic voltage adjumestments and dynamic frequencies adjustments.
I deactivated them for my Ryzen 1.
Yes you can do it but then frequency is set at 4.75 all core all the time.
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Old Dec 30, 2020, 03:49 AM   #273
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Make an experiment.Disable 4 cores in bios and see what max frequency you get.
From what i heard around 200watt is the limit and even if you run cool it will not go over past that watts..
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Old Dec 30, 2020, 04:49 AM   #274
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I give up man. I am just gaming right now. I have only 3 days left before I go back to work and I need to finish off Cyberpunk and make some progress in IFR.

I am not even bothering with front mounting my rad since it will require me to rewire a lot of crap. Also my gaming temps are under 70C for 90% of the time and I can live with that.
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Old Dec 30, 2020, 06:03 AM   #275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAC View Post
I give up man. I am just gaming right now. I have only 3 days left before I go back to work and I need to finish off Cyberpunk and make some progress in IFR.

I am not even bothering with front mounting my rad since it will require me to rewire a lot of crap. Also my gaming temps are under 70C for 90% of the time and I can live with that.
I really hope you are not lieing to yourself with the "gave up"

happy gaming
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Old Dec 31, 2020, 03:23 AM   #276
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KAC: there is a even better cooler than AIO for 5000 series if you want

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Old Dec 31, 2020, 07:34 AM   #277
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TEK coolers are cool, but drawing 200watt for just your cooler is madness. I'd need a second PSU just for that
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Old Jan 1, 2021, 05:22 AM   #278
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I ordered Corsair H150i Elite Capillex cooler. Was for 169 at a discount (207 shipped to my door) and comes with a commander core. So was worth the purchase. Been thinking about front mounting my rad but couldn’t do it since I have 3 Phanteks 140mm fans. Thought about the EK AIO as well but it was 236 shipped from Slovenia. So this seemed like a better deal as I will no longer have to use MSI crap to control lighting in my case (with the exception of case light bar). I will also get rid of terrible Phanteks fans and keep my Corsair only setup. I also read horrible reviews about the EK Vardar fans that go ape **** in sound department. Also their Vardar fans with the Predator were terrible. Also ordered some LL fans so that I can do push pull and ensure colors on both sides of the radiator. They were also 35 bucks cheaper.

So all in all this whole ordeal will cost me 0 bucks as I will sell my old H150i for about 130 boners. I also sold my EK AIO with a dead pump for 80. Gonna be dope.

Last edited by KAC : Jan 1, 2021 at 05:35 AM.
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Old Jan 1, 2021, 07:50 AM   #279
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The Phanteks fans are actually solid performing fans, especially for their price. The LL series fans are the ones that are terrible for performance..
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Old Jan 1, 2021, 07:58 AM   #280
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The one I got in my case has developed some whine. Also at more than 1000 RPM there is a lot of noise from the fans. I run them at 950 RPM and they barely move any air. As an experiment I even ran them at 600 RPM and my case temps barely changed.

The LL120s are silent even till 1250 RPM and move a lot of air as I can feel it both at top and back of the case.

Btw I saw the recent videos about front mounting and all said for 360 mm mount it can be with tubes up (tubes down won’t work with push/pull in my case due to lack of space)

Last edited by KAC : Jan 1, 2021 at 08:04 AM.
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Old Jan 1, 2021, 07:44 PM   #281
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Tubes up is perfectly fine, don't know where this misinformation is coming from. You just need the pump lower than the top of your rad [it's obvious, so air doesn't collect in your pump].
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 12:25 AM   #282
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Tubes up is perfectly fine, don't know where this misinformation is coming from. You just need the pump lower than the top of your rad [it's obvious, so air doesn't collect in your pump].
It was one Steve Bukkake video from GN that confused the crap out of me (and many others). Since then other YouTube gays have made 20 videos explaining what the frick that gay said.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 02:21 AM   #283
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Front mounted the rad like I front mounted all your mums last night.

Temps before playing Immortals Fenix Rising
CPU 80 C
GPU 65 C
RAM 53 C

Temps after without any other changes
CPU 72 C
GPU 68 C
RAM 59 C

I guess it was totally worth it. Some RGB porn.





Cancelled my order for H150i Elite Capillex for now. Other pros:
Silent compared to my Phanteks case fans
All LL fans so all lighting is same and all running 1250 RPM
No need for MSI dragon center horrible software as case RGB can be controlled with buttons on front panel

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Old Jan 2, 2021, 07:09 AM   #284
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Having second thoughts about this setup with front mount. Seems the components are running hotter than before. Ram almost hit 59-60 C which used to never run beyond 53 C. I also saw the chipset fan come on and GPU touch 68 C. The rad seems to be cooking the whole setup now. But CPU is running much cooler than before. What to do?
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 07:27 AM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAC View Post
Having second thoughts about this setup with front mount. Seems the components are running hotter than before. Ram almost hit 59-60 C which used to never run beyond 53 C. I also saw the chipset fan come on and GPU touch 68 C. The rad seems to be cooking the whole setup now. But CPU is running much cooler than before. What to do?



I think I mentioned why I will never go back to AIO for CPU cooling. The rest of your components get warmer and unlike a traditional air cooler - the VRM, RAM and other motherboard components are not getting air blown over them. I saw a significant drop in temps when switching from a AIO to the NH-D15. Not so much CPU temps but all secondary components dropped 5-10C.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 07:30 AM   #286
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Actually there are only 2-3 games causing this.

Immortals, Death Stranding and BOCW. All other games don’t let CPU break 70 C and components also remain pretty cool. These games really heat up the computer a lot! Immortals and Death Stranding the most.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 08:46 AM   #287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAC View Post
Actually there are only 2-3 games causing this.

Immortals, Death Stranding and BOCW. All other games don’t let CPU break 70 C and components also remain pretty cool. These games really heat up the computer a lot! Immortals and Death Stranding the most.
The rest of your components run warmer if you don't run a proper setup for the AIO. If you want to run the front-mount, you need to put fans at the top as intake. Regardless, the warm air the rad is pushing in will likely affect GPU temps unless you run a case with bottom mounted fans. This is where the Lian Li 011 shines.

Poor airflow or improper setup will be exacerbated by an AIO. That's not the fault of the AIO.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 08:50 AM   #288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nunz View Post
The rest of your components run warmer if you don't run a proper setup for the AIO. If you want to run the front-mount, you need to put fans at the top as intake. Regardless, the warm air the rad is pushing in will likely affect GPU temps unless you run a case with bottom mounted fans. This is where the Lian Li 011 shines.

Poor airflow or improper setup will be exacerbated by an AIO. That's not the fault of the AIO.
All builds I have seen always exhaust from the top in a similar case as mine (irrespective of whether the AIO is front or top mounted). I can try it but will put a damper on that RGB.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 09:14 AM   #289
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Think about how the air is flowing with the top as exhaust. The warmer air from the rad is being pulled in and up, directly over every component in your case. With the top fans as intake, you'd be pushing cool, fresh air over all components.

I would run all intakes at 950-1000rpm, including the AIO rad fans, and the solo exhaust fan in the rear at 1250rpm. With push-pull on that thin ass radiator, you're already capped at what more fans/higher RPM can do. Heavy positive pressure in the case should work quite well, but if you run all the intakes at 1250, they will start fighting each other for air (too much pressure in the case) and that will cause another issue.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 09:17 AM   #290
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Ok will try to make them intake in the morning and see what's up. However, the positive pressure bit going to try it right now. Actually when I increased all fans to 1300 RPM my temps dropped 2 degrees (across all components).
I also removed the air filter on the top of the case and can now feel a steady stream of air coming out so definitely air is exhausting quite well.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 09:19 AM   #291
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You're not running positive pressure in the case right now. You have more exhaust than intake. You definitely did not drop 2 degrees by increasing every fan 50rpm bro. Either you're not running them at 1250 like you said, or your ambient temperature changed

Also check edits made to my last post, I added some more info.

If increasing fan speed on the AIO rad fans makes temps significantly better, that's a case of the LL120s being garbage (like I've told you many times) because they aren't pushing as much air through the radiator as they should be. The issue with a lot of those Corsair fans are that they sacrifice static pressure for that RGB bullshit. There is a reason the Arctic and Noctua fans crush them as radiator fans.

If I increase the Noctua A12x25s on my 360mm AIO (only have 3 fans, not even running push-pull) from the 1000rpm they are at now, and set them to max speed, I drop maybe 4-5c at best, but that's at over 2000rpm..
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 09:55 AM   #292
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once again kac didnt research
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 09:59 AM   #293
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Also, if you're running the top as exhaust why do you have a filter there?? You only need to put the filter on if it's an intake, otherwise it's a huge flow restriction that serves zero purpose.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 10:05 AM   #294
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I suspect that the removal of the top dust filter had more to do with the temp drop.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 10:08 AM   #295
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I will try the reverse top fans later.

On research I saw the latest techpowerup review that showed that Noctua gets 3-4 CFM additional static pressure with similar RPM of 1250. I also have ML120 fans that are supposed to be corsair’s answer to static pressure issues. There is a reason I went with LL fans as they are slightly better than QL fans. Also I like the colors better.

I have also seen tons of builds doing the same setup as I did at the beginning with a radiator on top and front fans pulling air. The filter came with the case and I kept it. Removing or putting it did not change any temps. Except the feeling of air flowing was more noticeable.

I simply do not have more time to fiddle with this thing. Today was my last day and given I wanted to reduce CPU temps at least that objective was achieved. All other components are running within spec as well. Just higher than before.

2C drop might be explained because of night vs day. I am not doing scientific experiments here.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 10:33 AM   #296
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Just because a ton of people do something wrong, doesn't mean it's right. If the feeling of air flow is noticeable, what do you think that means? You would be able to run lower RPM and achieve the same amount of air flow as before, thus less noise, or you can leave them at the same RPM and achieve lower temps with higher thermal demand.

ML120 Pro fans are the best fans Corsair make for static pressure, but they're still garbage compared to the Noctua's. I know this because I just finished replacing 11 ML120 Pro's with Noctua A12x25s. It's taken a while as they're always out of stock and I'm not paying mark up for the fans. I'll have the last 5 I need to finish my PC on Sunday

With the top fans as intake, keep the filter there. If you go back to use top fans as exhaust (especially if the radiator is mounted there) then remove the filter. It serves no purpose unless you're using that spot as intake.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 10:53 AM   #297
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I don’t think you need all static pressure fans when they are not on a radiator. At least that is my understanding. You need high airflow fans for non radiator use which is why I got the LLs. For radiator I can always order some cheap Arctic/Noctua fans to replace the 3 ML fans I have. Or alternatively, I can wait to replace with an EK AIO and go with Vardar fans for the radiator instead. There are options to choose from but all of that after I see if the LL as intakes will work better.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 11:39 AM   #298
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I mean is chasing the lowest temps even worth the effort. The computer worked the same before and after with slightly lower temps.

What’s the point? Longevity of the components? You switch PC hardware so frequently you’ll never come to the point of the heat becoming an issue.

You seem to just pursue a bunch of useless **** just because. Fastest RAM timing which make no difference, 2 degrees here and the there, slightly CPU jump. I guess hobby and all but lets not pretend it really makes a difference when you’re gaming.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 02:06 PM   #299
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^^ Agree.

I run my AIO on exhaust, at the top of the case. Everything else is on intake. 3 120mm fans on the side (pc-011 dynamic) and 2 140mm fans on the bottom.

Never had a problem, though I'm sure the cpu runs warmer than it would if I had the AIO on intake. Trade-offs and all that.
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Old Jan 2, 2021, 02:30 PM   #300
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I don’t think you need all static pressure fans when they are not on a radiator. At least that is my understanding. You need high airflow fans for non radiator use which is why I got the LLs. For radiator I can always order some cheap Arctic/Noctua fans to replace the 3 ML fans I have. Or alternatively, I can wait to replace with an EK AIO and go with Vardar fans for the radiator instead. There are options to choose from but all of that after I see if the LL as intakes will work better.
This is false. All fans need to be capable of static pressure because the case, when running positive pressure, will fight the fans. If you have a fan with high static pressure spinning next to a fan that has none, the fan with no static pressure won't actually move any air into the case because the other fan is able to generate more pressure. This is why I run the Noctua fans even on spots with no radiator; they don't struggle to push air into the case. You could run a "high airflow" fan as an exhaust since it's moving air into an open area.

The whole "airflow" fan vs "static pressure" fan is a thing of the past. Noctua and Arctic are both making fans that do both.

The EK Vardar fans are not that good. Buy the Arctic P12 or get the Noctua A12x25. I would use the Phanteks for case fans, but they can be susceptible to whine due to the cheaper motors.
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