Sonosub Build

DeathKnight · Dec 1, 2009, 06:15 PM

Figured I would share my build progress with anyone who is interested.

Parts

- sonotube (18" ID, 19" OD, cut to 36")
- 3/4" MDF
- Dayton RSS315HF-4 12" Reference HF subwoofer
- BASH 300W digital subwoofer plate amp (mounting in separate enclosure)
- 4" diameter 17" long flared port
- screws and hurricane nuts
- egg-crate foam to line the interior
- etc

Tuning frequency should be about 20Hz or so. With room gain and corner-loading I should get extension well below that. My room isn't big so I shouldn't have to worry about bottoming-out the driver as I won't have to drive it to those levels to get good output. I have the top cap pieces all cut out but they aren't glued together yet. I also have the base plate cut out but I obviously still have to attach that to the bottom cap.

On to the

I hope to have it done some time this month.

Sound_Card · Dec 2, 2009, 09:02 PM

very impressive man, can't wait to see the end result.

DeathKnight · Dec 2, 2009, 09:31 PM

Thanks! I'm going to have to go to the local hardware store to get a few things for the base (thick dowel rod for the legs, and some hardware to make the base plate removable). Made a bit more progress today.

Foam is in (attached with hot melt glue):

Top cap glued and clamped, but still needing screws:

Port glued together. I was going to do it with PVC cement but I opened up the cement and it was a solid rubber mass

So I just used 5 minute epoxy instead:

Bottom wired and foamed:

traitoR · Dec 3, 2009, 11:03 AM

Cool project.

Did you fabricate the end caps yourself ? If so just curious how and what you used for tools.

DeathKnight · Dec 3, 2009, 11:22 AM

Yep. Used a plunge router, couple of circle jigs (one home made and the other I purchased), 1/4" straight-cut bit and then a round-over bit to finish the edge on the caps and baseplate.

traitoR · Dec 3, 2009, 12:09 PM

Having the tools is half the battle. I'll have to see about getting a cicle jig for my router.

I have quite a few bits though, they are pretty expensive for descent ones.

Working with wood is rewarding.

What are you going to do with the AMP ? Build a seperate box... but where would you put it where it'll look semi descent professional ? Using a better wood to finish for it ? Pine / Oak or some other ?

Dr. Zhivago · Dec 3, 2009, 02:08 PM

Cool stuff! and nice work so far.

I have a Parts Express sub kit, the C1500K. 15" Dayton Classic 4 Ohm, 240W Sub Amp. I can shake stuff off the walls in my living room. A decent 12" sub would have been plenty, but I went for a more budget-priced model. And, there's the wow factor with the 15" driver. All my friends are jealous.

Looking forward to your progress.

DeathKnight · Dec 3, 2009, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by traitoR

Working with wood is rewarding.

What are you going to do with the AMP ? Build a seperate box... but where would you put it where it'll look semi descent professional ? Using a better wood to finish for it ? Pine / Oak or some other ?

Haven't really decided yet. It's going to be behind my TV stand though (out of sight) so I don't think it's going to be fancy. First I have to test out the amp with the sub to see if everything jives then I'll build a little enclosure.

Encyclopedia_b · Dec 4, 2009, 06:56 AM

very very cool

i remember back in the 80s we used to make bass buckets. we would take 5 gallon buckets and fill them with foam and drop a 10" on the top

guest · Dec 5, 2009, 02:11 PM

Looks nice. Are you logging the number of hours you are spending on this? I am curious how big of a job this ended up being for you.

DeathKnight · Dec 5, 2009, 03:27 PM

Nah, I haven't been keeping track really. If I had to guess I'm probably at 15-20 hours so far with just the build (on and off). Just finished the entire base assembly.

Screws for the legs:

Screw waiting for leg:

All legs screwed on:

Test fit (baby's solid!):

DeathKnight · Dec 5, 2009, 07:57 PM

It's assembled

I'm going to let the glue dry overnight and try it out tomorrow.

[edit] I will be covering the tube in some kind of carpeting.

DeathKnight · Dec 5, 2009, 09:18 PM

Got antsy and hooked it up already. It works! It's not in my room at the moment though. It's across the hallway in the spare room where I was building it. I just ran the LFE output over to that room. Fired up the test tone generator and started at 40Hz and went down from there. Last frequency I tried was 15Hz and I was getting decent output. I put a newspaper over the port and it was flapping like mad. Once I get it in my room in the sweet spot it should be pretty sick

DeathKnight · Dec 5, 2009, 10:31 PM

Got it moved into my room. This thing blows the socks off my old sub. Still just trying it with test tones at the moment. At 15Hz there's an intense pressure at my listening position. Output is still good at 14Hz then it drops way off. Have to calibrate it then I'll be in business. Can't wait to try out some movies!

Dr. Zhivago · Dec 6, 2009, 12:00 PM

Sweet! Is there some kind of forumla for the distance from the woofer cone to the next boundary to determine how long the legs ned to be? Or, another way to put it: is boundary loading the cone off the bottom plate part of the design goal? Kinda reminds me of a Bazooka design element.

Just wun'ering.

traitoR · Dec 6, 2009, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr. Zhivago

Sweet! Is there some kind of forumla for the distance from the woofer cone to the next boundary to determine how long the legs ned to be? Or, another way to put it: is boundary loading the cone off the bottom plate part of the design goal? Kinda reminds me of a Bazooka design element.

Just wun'ering.

I found this Sonosub calculator online.

http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/sonosub.htm

Dr. Zhivago · Dec 6, 2009, 12:38 PM

Kewl traitoR! I figured, or at least hoped, that distance was taken into account using some math.

Dec 1, 2009, 06:15 PM	#1	Advertisement (Guests Only) Login or Register to remove this ad
DeathKnight Radeon Arctic Islands Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 21,352	Sonosub Build Figured I would share my build progress with anyone who is interested. Parts - sonotube (18" ID, 19" OD, cut to 36") - 3/4" MDF - Dayton RSS315HF-4 12" Reference HF subwoofer - BASH 300W digital subwoofer plate amp (mounting in separate enclosure) - 4" diameter 17" long flared port - screws and hurricane nuts - egg-crate foam to line the interior - etc Tuning frequency should be about 20Hz or so. With room gain and corner-loading I should get extension well below that. My room isn't big so I shouldn't have to worry about bottoming-out the driver as I won't have to drive it to those levels to get good output. I have the top cap pieces all cut out but they aren't glued together yet. I also have the base plate cut out but I obviously still have to attach that to the bottom cap. On to the I hope to have it done some time this month. __________________ Last edited by DeathKnight : Dec 1, 2009 at 06:20 PM.

DeathKnight's System Specs
Motherboard	Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite
CPU	AMD Ryzen 7 5800X
Graphics	MSI 3080 VENTUS 3X OC 10G
Memory	2 x 16GB G.SKILL Ripjaws V DDR4-3200 (14-14-14-34)
Cooling Solution	Fractal Design Celsius S24 AIO
Display	Vizio E48-C2 48" LED Backlit LCD TV
Soundcard & Speakers	Creative Sound Blaster Z
Hard-Drives	WD Black SN750 1TB M.2 NVMe SSD, Samusng 850 Evo 500GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 2TB, WD 640GB Black
Optical Drives	Asus BW-12B1ST 12X Blu-ray Burner
Power Supply	EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2
Case	Fractal Design Define R5
Input Devices	Logitech Performance Mouse MX
Operating System	Win 10 Pro

Dec 2, 2009, 09:31 PM	#3
DeathKnight Radeon Arctic Islands Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 21,352	Thanks! I'm going to have to go to the local hardware store to get a few things for the base (thick dowel rod for the legs, and some hardware to make the base plate removable). Made a bit more progress today. Foam is in (attached with hot melt glue): Top cap glued and clamped, but still needing screws: Port glued together. I was going to do it with PVC cement but I opened up the cement and it was a solid rubber mass So I just used 5 minute epoxy instead: Bottom wired and foamed: __________________

DeathKnight's System Specs
Motherboard	Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite
CPU	AMD Ryzen 7 5800X
Graphics	MSI 3080 VENTUS 3X OC 10G
Memory	2 x 16GB G.SKILL Ripjaws V DDR4-3200 (14-14-14-34)
Cooling Solution	Fractal Design Celsius S24 AIO
Display	Vizio E48-C2 48" LED Backlit LCD TV
Soundcard & Speakers	Creative Sound Blaster Z
Hard-Drives	WD Black SN750 1TB M.2 NVMe SSD, Samusng 850 Evo 500GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 2TB, WD 640GB Black
Optical Drives	Asus BW-12B1ST 12X Blu-ray Burner
Power Supply	EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2
Case	Fractal Design Define R5
Input Devices	Logitech Performance Mouse MX
Operating System	Win 10 Pro

Dec 3, 2009, 11:03 AM	#4
traitoR Galactic Butterfly Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Sask Posts: 6,569	Cool project. Did you fabricate the end caps yourself ? If so just curious how and what you used for tools. __________________ It is regrettable that many personal fortunes are made by people who simply manipulate money and contribute nothing to their society. The dream of eternal life is far more compelling than living one.

Dec 2, 2009, 09:02 PM	#2
Sound_Card Banned Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Constantinople Posts: 14,631	very impressive man, can't wait to see the end result.

Sound_Card's System Specs
Soundcard & Speakers	Motu M2 / Audio Technica 900x / Presonus Eris 4.5's

traitoR's System Specs
Motherboard	Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3R 2.0
CPU	Intel Core 2 Q6600 @ 400x8=3.2
Graphics	XFX Radeon 4870 1 GB 800, 1000
Memory	4GB DDR2 @ 1:1 800Mhz 5-5-5-15 2T
Cooling Solution	Thermalright ULTIMA-90 Push/Pull
Display	24" Vision Quest WS : 19" Proview WS
Soundcard & Speakers	Logitech Z-5300e AuzenTech X-FI Prelude
Hard-Drives	64 GB V series Gen 2 Win 7, 200GB Sata raid 0, 1-500GB Vista, 1-500GB Backup, 1 1TB Backup
Optical Drives	DVD Samsung SH-S203B
Power Supply	Antec 650 Watt True power trio
Case	Antec 900
Input Devices	G15, MX Lazer
Operating System	Windows 7 64 + Vista 32
Extra Info	Zalman ZM-MFC2 4 Fan Speed Controller

Dec 3, 2009, 11:22 AM	#5
DeathKnight Radeon Arctic Islands Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 21,352	Yep. Used a plunge router, couple of circle jigs (one home made and the other I purchased), 1/4" straight-cut bit and then a round-over bit to finish the edge on the caps and baseplate. __________________

Dec 3, 2009, 12:09 PM	#6
traitoR Galactic Butterfly Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Sask Posts: 6,569	Having the tools is half the battle. I'll have to see about getting a cicle jig for my router. I have quite a few bits though, they are pretty expensive for descent ones. Working with wood is rewarding. What are you going to do with the AMP ? Build a seperate box... but where would you put it where it'll look semi descent professional ? Using a better wood to finish for it ? Pine / Oak or some other ? __________________ It is regrettable that many personal fortunes are made by people who simply manipulate money and contribute nothing to their society. The dream of eternal life is far more compelling than living one.

Dec 3, 2009, 02:08 PM	#7
Dr. Zhivago Sound: Serious Business Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Oregon Posts: 8,259	Cool stuff! and nice work so far. I have a Parts Express sub kit, the C1500K. 15" Dayton Classic 4 Ohm, 240W Sub Amp. I can shake stuff off the walls in my living room. A decent 12" sub would have been plenty, but I went for a more budget-priced model. And, there's the wow factor with the 15" driver. All my friends are jealous. Looking forward to your progress. Last edited by Dr. Zhivago : Dec 4, 2009 at 11:21 AM.

Dr. Zhivago's System Specs
Motherboard	Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H
CPU	Intel Core i5-3570K
Graphics	Sapphire Flex HD 7950 3GB
Memory	8GB DDR3-1600
Cooling Solution	Corsiar H50
Display	AOC 23" 1080p LCD
Soundcard & Speakers	Asus Xonar DX
Hard-Drives	Samsung 840 256GB SSD
Optical Drives	Lite-On DVDRW
Power Supply	Cooler Master 750W
Case	Antec ON1E
Input Devices	Logitech PS2 Media KB & G5
Operating System	Windows 7 64 Bit SP1
Extra Info	TP-Link 300MB WL-N

Dec 4, 2009, 06:56 AM	#9
Encyclopedia_b Purveyor of OFN Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Capitol of the free world : Wash DC Posts: 11,581	very very cool i remember back in the 80s we used to make bass buckets. we would take 5 gallon buckets and fill them with foam and drop a 10" on the top

Dec 5, 2009, 02:11 PM	#10
guest ATi VGA Wonder Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Login Prompt Posts: 25,063	Looks nice. Are you logging the number of hours you are spending on this? I am curious how big of a job this ended up being for you.

guest's System Specs
Motherboard	ASROCK X79 Fatal1ty Pro
CPU	Intel Core i7 4930k
Graphics	Gigabyte GV-N760OC-4GD (2xSLI)
Memory	Four 4GB Mushkin 1.5V 1833MHz CL9
Cooling Solution	Corsair H110
Display	Auria 27" 2560x1440 Displayport
Power Supply	Cooler Master V850 (Seasonic)
Case	Cooler Master HAF XM
Input Devices	Logitech G19 Keyboard
Operating System	Windows 8.1 Pro

Dec 5, 2009, 03:27 PM	#11
DeathKnight Radeon Arctic Islands Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 21,352	Nah, I haven't been keeping track really. If I had to guess I'm probably at 15-20 hours so far with just the build (on and off). Just finished the entire base assembly. Screws for the legs: Screw waiting for leg: All legs screwed on: Test fit (baby's solid!): __________________

Dec 5, 2009, 07:57 PM	#12
DeathKnight Radeon Arctic Islands Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 21,352	It's assembled I'm going to let the glue dry overnight and try it out tomorrow. [edit] I will be covering the tube in some kind of carpeting. __________________ Last edited by DeathKnight : Dec 5, 2009 at 08:09 PM.

Dec 5, 2009, 09:18 PM	#13
DeathKnight Radeon Arctic Islands Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 21,352	Got antsy and hooked it up already. It works! It's not in my room at the moment though. It's across the hallway in the spare room where I was building it. I just ran the LFE output over to that room. Fired up the test tone generator and started at 40Hz and went down from there. Last frequency I tried was 15Hz and I was getting decent output. I put a newspaper over the port and it was flapping like mad. Once I get it in my room in the sweet spot it should be pretty sick __________________

Dec 5, 2009, 10:31 PM	#14
DeathKnight Radeon Arctic Islands Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 21,352	Got it moved into my room. This thing blows the socks off my old sub. Still just trying it with test tones at the moment. At 15Hz there's an intense pressure at my listening position. Output is still good at 14Hz then it drops way off. Have to calibrate it then I'll be in business. Can't wait to try out some movies! __________________

Dec 6, 2009, 12:00 PM	#15
Dr. Zhivago Sound: Serious Business Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Oregon Posts: 8,259	Sweet! Is there some kind of forumla for the distance from the woofer cone to the next boundary to determine how long the legs ned to be? Or, another way to put it: is boundary loading the cone off the bottom plate part of the design goal? Kinda reminds me of a Bazooka design element. Just wun'ering.

Dec 6, 2009, 12:38 PM	#17
Dr. Zhivago Sound: Serious Business Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Oregon Posts: 8,259	Kewl traitoR! I figured, or at least hoped, that distance was taken into account using some math.

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