You are running mid-range stuff. The old PSU would have been fine. The EVGA is miles and miles ahead of the CX (and basically every PSU Corsair has on the market) so it was still a good move, but when you need to budget a new board/chip/ram, spending unnecessarily kinda sucks. The money that went into the PSU could potentially move that 7400 into a 7600.
I'm kind of surprised you're getting an MSI when your GF's board apparently didn't even manage to run the AMD cards. If anything it seems like your experience with MSI is even worse than with ASRock? Not even managing to POST is not a strong argument in favor of MSI.
I'm not also sure whether buying new equipment is the best approach at this point (although I guess you already went forward with it). Personally, I would have tried a lot harder to verify the 290 was working properly before replacing everything. That's especially true because it sounds like you're on a budget, and right now is a pretty poor time to upgrade. Even if you don't go with Ryzen it should help push prices down, especially on the lower end i5s.
I'd still consider taking the card over to a friend, or maybe even bringing it in to a repair shop and having them test it, before putting a new machine together, only to potentially find out the card is the culprit.
Just got off the chat with Microsoft, come to find out that the desired key for Win 10 if it was a free upgrade from 7, is the Win 7 key. This made me feel so dumb cause it never occurred to me to try it nor is this bit of info in the knowledgebase that I could find. Take note.
It is via the accessibility upgrade offer and IIRC it still takes Win 7+ keys during activation.I don't think the free upgrade is available anymore. Looks like Win 7 will be it since you have a new mobo and CPU I don't think Microsoft will recognize that as a re-install but as a new computer. So did the Win 7 key work?
What Seyiji said. Since you're installing 10 over 7 it just uses the old key. Once the free upgrade is acquired the ISO for the upgrade is still available. Hence I'm running 10 v 14xxx rather than 15xxx or 16xxx.
Didn't know that, so I can load Win 7 on new rig and then 10 and it will activate? The Win 7 I have is an OEM copy though which was updated to Win 8 Pro (appears to be full version) then to Win 10 free.
I guess I could try on next build to see if it works.
I already have a spare Win 10 Home on my bookcase unwrapped full version .